Late Checkout
Benesse House, Naoshima
Sekitei, Miyahama Onsen, Hatsukaichi
Azumi Setoda, Setoda, Onomichi

Japan

Chugoku and Shikoku

The Seto Inland Sea is a calm water of small islands between Honshu and Shikoku, with art islands such as Naoshima, old ports, the canal town of Kurashiki and the shrine of Miyajima off Hiroshima.

Our places are spread out and each is a reason to go: Benesse House, a museum with rooms on Naoshima; Azumi Setoda, in a merchant's house on an island on the Shimanami Kaido; Sekitei, across the strait from Miyajima; and further west, Bettei Otozure at Nagato Yumoto Onsen. We know 9 places to stay here, 5 of them ryokans. At Bettei Otozure and Simose Art Garden Villa, every room has its own hot-spring bath.

How to choose

  • For art

    Benesse House: rooms in Tadao Ando's museum on Naoshima, its art on the walls

  • For an island ryokan

    Azumi Setoda: an 1876 merchant estate on Ikuchijima, with its bathhouse across the street

  • For Miyajima, with children

    Sekitei: kaiseki in your room, across the strait from Miyajima, and pre-school children stay free

  • For a hot spring of your own

    Bettei Otozure: a free-flowing open-air spring bath in every room, for guests 13 and over

  • In Kurashiki's old quarter

    Ryokan Kurashiki: a sugar merchant's house and storehouses on the canal

When to go

Spring and autumn are the best seasons, with calm seas and mild days; the rainy season comes in June and early July, August is hot, and some ferries and museums keep shorter hours in winter.

How long

Three to five nights, between Kyoto and Kyushu.

Getting there

The Sanyo Shinkansen reaches Okayama from Tokyo in about 3 hours 15 minutes and Hiroshima in about four hours, and Okayama from Shin-Osaka in about 45 minutes; the ferry from Uno to Naoshima takes about 20 minutes. Hiroshima airport is about an hour by car from Setoda, and Matsuyama airport about 30 minutes from Setouchi Retreat Aonagi.

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Ryokans and hotels

Naoshima

Hotel

ベネッセハウス

MICHELIN Keys

Rooms in Tadao Ando's museum, its art on the walls

Miyahama Onsen, Hatsukaichi

Ryokan

庭園の宿 石亭

MICHELIN Keys

Garden pavilions on a pond, looking across to Miyajima

Setoda, Onomichi

Ryokan
MICHELIN Key

The Horiuchi merchants' 1876 estate, bathhouse opposite

Nagato Yumoto Onsen

Ryokan

別邸 音信

MICHELIN Key

Walnut and tatami rooms, each bath a different shape

Naoshima

Ryokan

直島旅館 ろ霞

MICHELIN Key

Eleven suites with open-air baths, art in the Naoshima hills

Yanaidani, Matsuyama

Hotel

瀬戸内リトリート 青凪 by 温故知新

MICHELIN Key

Seven suites in a Tadao Ando building over the Inland Sea

Harumi, Otake

Auberge

SIMOSE ART GARDEN VILLA

MICHELIN Key

Ten Shigeru Ban villas facing Miyajima across the sea

Bikan Historical Quarter, Kurashiki

Ryokan

旅館くらしき

An Edo sugar merchant's house and storehouses on the canal

Higashimachi, Kurashiki

Auberge

撚る屋

A 16-seat counter in a Meiji kimono merchant's annex

Sample trips through Chugoku and Shikoku

Routes we have drawn up that stay in Chugoku and Shikoku: starting points for a trip we build around your dates and pace.

Hotel Chinzanso Tokyo, Sekiguchi, Tokyo
Spacia X, Asakusa to Tobu-Nikko
Fufu Nikko, Honcho, Nikko

13 nights · Autumn

Two weeks in autumn: Tokyo, Nikko, Kyoto and the Inland Sea

A route that follows the autumn leaves south and west: a garden hotel in Tokyo, the Spacia X to the shrines of Nikko, then Kyoto by Nanzen-ji and Arashiyama, a restaurant inn in Kurashiki and Shigeru Ban's villas on the Inland Sea facing Miyajima.

Benesse House, Naoshima
Azumi Setoda, Setoda, Onomichi
Guntû, Bella Vista Marina

9 nights · Spring

The Inland Sea in spring: art islands, Guntû and Miyajima

A trip across the Seto Inland Sea, from the art museums of Naoshima to an island on the Shimanami Kaido and three nights at sea on Guntû.

Six Senses Kyoto, Higashiyama, Kyoto
Mameya, Tatsumachi, Tamba-Sasayama
Ryokan Kurashiki, Bikan Historical Quarter, Kurashiki

9 nights · Spring or autumn

The Inland Sea by train and ferry: Sasayama, Kurashiki, Naoshima and Matsuyama

From Kyoto west through the castle town of Sasayama and the canal quarter of Kurashiki to the art island of Naoshima, then across to Matsuyama in Shikoku.

Collections for Chugoku and Shikoku

A hot spring in every room49Dinner in your room15Where the food is the reason22Hot springs where tattoos are no trouble54Ryokans that welcome children38

Elsewhere in Japan

Q&A

Benesse House, by Tadao Ando, has rooms inside and beside the museum, with free entry to it until 23:00. Naoshima Ryokan Roka, in the hills near Honmura, has an open-air bath in every suite and takes guests 12 and over.

Three to five, moving every night or two: Naoshima, Setoda on the Shimanami Kaido and Miyajima are each a day apart. Kurashiki, at Ryokan Kurashiki or Yoruya, fits a night between Okayama and the islands.

Sekitei welcomes children and lets pre-school children stay free, Azumi Setoda welcomes families, and Benesse House takes any age in Park and the Beach Suites. Naoshima Ryokan Roka, Yoruya and Bettei Otozure take no young children.

At Azumi Setoda small one-point tattoos are fine at the yubune bathhouse, and at Setouchi Retreat Aonagi guests with tattoos may use the pools. Many of our places here, among them Naoshima Ryokan Roka and Simose Art Garden Villa, have no shared baths.