


Japan
Hokuriku
Hokuriku is the Sea of Japan side of Honshu, with the craft city of Kanazawa at its centre, old hot-spring villages in the hills of Kaga and Fukui, and the Noto peninsula to the north.
It is the place for a small ryokan where the cooking matters as much as the bath: Tsuruko in Kanazawa itself, Araya Totoan and Beniya Mukayu at Yamashiro Onsen, Kofuyuden Beniya at Awara, or Hitotsu Notojima, a sushi counter with rooms on an island in Nanao Bay. Across the mountains in Niigata’s snow country, Satoyama Jujo keeps a farmhouse at Minamiuonuma, nearer Tokyo by the Joetsu Shinkansen. We know 8 places to stay here, 6 of them ryokans. At Beniya Mukayu and Tsuruko, every room has its own hot-spring bath.
How to choose
For a first ryokan, with dinner in the room
Kofuyuden Beniya: kaiseki in your room, and a part-open-air spring bath in every room
In Kanazawa itself
Tsuruko: four suites with open-air hot-spring baths, near Omicho Market and Kenrokuen
With tattoos
Araya Totoan: tattooed guests may use its shared baths
For the food
Hitotsu Notojima: a sushi counter over Nanao Bay, for guests 13 and over
With children
Kanshukuen Eshikoto: families welcome, dining in a private room, beside the Kokuryu sake complex
When to go
The snow crab season, from early November to March, draws visitors in winter, when the region is snowy, and the leaves in the Kaga gorges turn in November; spring and early summer are quieter.
How long
Two nights, on the Hokuriku Shinkansen between Tokyo and Kyoto.
Getting there
The Hokuriku Shinkansen reaches Kanazawa from Tokyo in about 2 hours 30 minutes and Kaga Onsen in about 2 hours 50 minutes; from Kyoto or Osaka, change from the Thunderbird to the Shinkansen at Tsuruga, about 2 hours 30 minutes from Shin-Osaka to Kanazawa. Komatsu airport is about 25 minutes by taxi from Yamashiro Onsen. Echigo-Yuzawa, for Satoyama Jujo, is about 80 minutes from Tokyo by the Joetsu Shinkansen.
Ready to stay here?
Tell us where and when. Our team in Japan books the room we would choose, at the inn’s own rate, settles your requests with the inn, and stays in touch before and during your stay. Price and cancellation terms are confirmed with you first.
Already have an itinerary in mind?
Have it reviewed for USD 85Ryokans and hotels

Yunogawa, Kaga
RyokanAraya Totoan
あらや滔々庵
Eighteen generations over Yamashiro's original spring

Yamashiro Onsen, Kaga
RyokanBeniya Mukayu
べにや無何有
Sixteen rooms on a temple hill, facing a forest garden

Susomachi, Nanao
AubergeHitotsu Notojima
一 能登島
A sushi counter and six rooms over Nanao Bay

Awara Onsen
RyokanKofuyuden Beniya
光風湯圃べにや
Rebuilt by Tetsuo Kobori, every room on its own courtyard

Osawayama Onsen, Minamiuonuma
RyokanSatoyama Jujo
里山十帖
Snow-country preserved foods in a 150-year-old farmhouse

Takaokamachi, Kanazawa
RyokanTsuruko
つる幸
Four suites in a Kanazawa ryotei of 1965, with its kappo

Shimojohoji, Eiheiji
AubergeKanshukuen Eshikoto
歓宿縁 ESHIKOTO
Black villas on the Kuzuryu, by the Kokuryu sake complex

Yamanaka Onsen, Kaga
RyokanThe Kayotei
かよう亭
Ten tea-pavilion rooms in its own forest above a gorge
Sample trips through Hokuriku
Routes we have drawn up that stay in Hokuriku: starting points for a trip we build around your dates and pace.



6 nights · Any season
A short first trip: Tokyo, a night in a Kaga ryokan, and Kyoto
Six nights for a first visit: Tokyo, then the Hokuriku Shinkansen to a ryokan in the hills of Kaga for one night of baths and kaiseki, and on to Kyoto.



13 nights · Any season
A first two weeks: Tokyo, Kanazawa, Kyoto, Nara and a ryokan in Hakone
Thirteen nights for a first visit, with six of them in ryokans: Tokyo, then GranClass on the Hokuriku Shinkansen to a four-suite inn in Kanazawa, four nights in Gion, two in Nara Park and two at the end in a ryokan in the Hakone hills, a car ride from the airports.



13 nights · Any season
Two weeks of ryokans: the hot springs of Izu, then Fukui and Kaga
For a client who has seen Tokyo and Kyoto: five inns in two regions and no city at all.



6 nights · Winter
Snow country in winter: Ginzan, Uonuma and Tanigawa
A round trip from Tokyo to three hot-spring ryokan in the snow: Ginzan Onsen in Yamagata, then Osawayama in Niigata's rice country and Tanigawa Onsen below the mountains of Gunma.



9 nights · Any season
Kanazawa and the craft towns: lacquer, gold leaf and Kutani porcelain, then the Hida hills
A trip from Tokyo to the Sea of Japan coast in the first-class car of the Hokuriku Shinkansen, then over the mountains through Shirakawa-go to Takayama and on to Matsumoto.
Beyond the hotel
Private and out-of-hours ways into Hokuriku, arranged by our team in Japan. Ask about any of them with your stay.

Geisha evening · Higashi Chaya
A geisha evening at Kaikaro
Dance, taiko and shamisen over dinner, one group a night in the largest teahouse
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An evening ozashiki party for your group alone at Kaikaro, the largest teahouse in the Higashi Chaya district: geisha perform dance, taiko and shamisen over a dinner of seasonal Kanazawa food served on local craft tableware. The proprietress, Hanako Baba, speaks English; one group is taken per night.

Geisha evening · Kenrokuen
Dinner with geiko inside Kenrokuen
Kaiseki after the garden closes, with two geiko and an interpreter
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Kaiseki dinner at Kenrokutei, a teahouse inside Kenrokuen by the garden's old fountain, served after the garden has closed to the public, with two geiko (a dancer and a musician) performing and talking with you through an English interpreter. One group a night, 6 to 8 p.m.

Geisha evening · Nishi Chaya
Behind the scenes with two geiko
Kimono, dance and old party games in a working teahouse, interpreted
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A daytime hour and a half in one of the five working teahouses of the Nishi Chaya district: two geiko show you round, explain their kimono, hair and customs, dance and play taiko and flute, and play the old party games with you, with an English interpreter.

Tea ceremony · Nomachi
Tea with an Enshu instructor
Tea in a home of nearly a century and how a gathering is prepared; weekdays
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Tea in the tearoom of the nearly hundred-year-old home of Yuta Takahashi, an associate instructor of the Enshu school, near the Nishi Chaya district, with a look behind the scenes of how a gathering is prepared. Private, for up to six.

Tea ceremony · Higashi Chaya
A morning of tea, incense and kaiseki
A guided walk, then chakaiseki breakfast and tea hosted by Mr Suzuoki
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A private morning in the Higashi Chaya district: a walk with an English-speaking guide, then a chakaiseki breakfast, a monko incense ceremony and tea, all hosted by Mr Suzuoki, chef, tea master and second-generation owner of the restaurant Suzuoki.

Guide · Higashi Chaya
A walk through the geiko districts
Two hours by the Asano river with a local guide, for your party alone
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Two hours on foot through the Higashi Chaya and Kazuemachi teahouse districts along the Asano river with a local guide who knows them, for your party alone.

Craft · Komatsu
Gold leaf at a Kutani kiln
Work with the Yoshida family's artisans; for Beniya Mukayu guests, two nights+
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A visit to Kinzangama, the Kutani overglaze kiln the Yoshida family has run since 1906, to meet its artists and artisans and apply gold leaf to a coloured Kutani piece with their professional tools. For guests of Beniya Mukayu, which we book, staying two nights or more.

Craft · Yamashiro Onsen
Lacquer with Tomizo Saratani
Decorate your own maki-e piece; for Beniya Mukayu guests, two nights or more
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Two hours in the studio of Tomizo Saratani, a lacquer artist who has restored lacquerware for museums and auction houses since the late 1970s, learning how urushi works and decorating your own piece in maki-e with lacquer powder, shell or gold. For guests of Beniya Mukayu, which we book, staying two nights or more.

Craft · Yamanaka Onsen
Woodturning with Terai Laku
Turn a piece he lacquers and sends on; for Beniya Mukayu guests, two nights+
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Two hours at the mountain studio near Yamanaka of the woodturner Terai Laku, a graduate of Yamanaka's four-year woodturning school: you sketch a piece and turn it from a single block, and he lacquers it and sends it to you about three months later. For guests of Beniya Mukayu, which we book, staying two nights or more.

Tea ceremony · Yamashiro Onsen
Tea with Beniya Mukayu's owners
A bowl and conversation with the Nakamichis; for guests staying two nights+
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A bowl of tea made by Mr and Mrs Nakamichi, the owners of the Relais & Châteaux ryokan Beniya Mukayu, and twenty minutes of conversation with them. For guests of Beniya Mukayu, which we book, staying two nights or more.
Tables worth the effort
The places we have been first, then the counters worth the effort. Many book only by telephone, by introduction or on set dates; we book them for you.

Kaiseki · Higashiyama
Kataori
Ishikawa's highest-rated restaurant on Tabelog, eight seats, no children

Tempura · Katamachi
Tempura Koizumi
Seasonal tempura omakase at nine seats; no children under school age
Collections for Hokuriku
Elsewhere in Japan
Q&A
Beniya Mukayu has an open-air cypress spring bath in every room, Kofuyuden Beniya a part-open-air one, and Tsuruko an open-air one in every suite. At Araya Totoan 11 of the 17 rooms have their own spring bath.
Stay in Kanazawa for the gardens, the markets and the craft streets: Tsuruko is between the station and Kenrokuen. For a ryokan with its own spring, Yamashiro Onsen, Yamanaka Onsen and Awara are each about an hour away, at Araya Totoan, Beniya Mukayu, The Kayotei and Kofuyuden Beniya.
Araya Totoan, Kofuyuden Beniya and Kanshukuen Eshikoto welcome children, and at Tsuruko young children stay in the Chihaku annex. Beniya Mukayu takes no children under 7, and Hitotsu Notojima guests 13 and over only.
At Araya Totoan tattooed guests may use the shared baths. Kofuyuden Beniya does not allow them in its large baths, but every room has its own spring bath.


