Late Checkout
Araya Totoan, Yunogawa, Kaga
Beniya Mukayu, Yamashiro Onsen, Kaga
Hitotsu Notojima, Susomachi, Nanao

Japan

Hokuriku

Hokuriku is the Sea of Japan side of Honshu, with the craft city of Kanazawa at its centre, old hot-spring villages in the hills of Kaga and Fukui, and the Noto peninsula to the north.

It is the place for a small ryokan where the cooking matters as much as the bath: Tsuruko in Kanazawa itself, Araya Totoan and Beniya Mukayu at Yamashiro Onsen, Kofuyuden Beniya at Awara, or Hitotsu Notojima, a sushi counter with rooms on an island in Nanao Bay. Across the mountains in Niigata’s snow country, Satoyama Jujo keeps a farmhouse at Minamiuonuma, nearer Tokyo by the Joetsu Shinkansen. We know 8 places to stay here, 6 of them ryokans. At Beniya Mukayu and Tsuruko, every room has its own hot-spring bath.

How to choose

  • For a first ryokan, with dinner in the room

    Kofuyuden Beniya: kaiseki in your room, and a part-open-air spring bath in every room

  • In Kanazawa itself

    Tsuruko: four suites with open-air hot-spring baths, near Omicho Market and Kenrokuen

  • With tattoos

    Araya Totoan: tattooed guests may use its shared baths

  • For the food

    Hitotsu Notojima: a sushi counter over Nanao Bay, for guests 13 and over

  • With children

    Kanshukuen Eshikoto: families welcome, dining in a private room, beside the Kokuryu sake complex

When to go

The snow crab season, from early November to March, draws visitors in winter, when the region is snowy, and the leaves in the Kaga gorges turn in November; spring and early summer are quieter.

How long

Two nights, on the Hokuriku Shinkansen between Tokyo and Kyoto.

Getting there

The Hokuriku Shinkansen reaches Kanazawa from Tokyo in about 2 hours 30 minutes and Kaga Onsen in about 2 hours 50 minutes; from Kyoto or Osaka, change from the Thunderbird to the Shinkansen at Tsuruga, about 2 hours 30 minutes from Shin-Osaka to Kanazawa. Komatsu airport is about 25 minutes by taxi from Yamashiro Onsen. Echigo-Yuzawa, for Satoyama Jujo, is about 80 minutes from Tokyo by the Joetsu Shinkansen.

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Tell us where and when. Our team in Japan books the room we would choose, at the inn’s own rate, settles your requests with the inn, and stays in touch before and during your stay. Price and cancellation terms are confirmed with you first.

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Ryokans and hotels

Yunogawa, Kaga

Ryokan

あらや滔々庵

MICHELIN Key

Eighteen generations over Yamashiro's original spring

Yamashiro Onsen, Kaga

Ryokan

べにや無何有

MICHELIN Key

Sixteen rooms on a temple hill, facing a forest garden

Susomachi, Nanao

Auberge

一 能登島

MICHELIN Key

A sushi counter and six rooms over Nanao Bay

Awara Onsen

Ryokan

光風湯圃べにや

MICHELIN Key

Rebuilt by Tetsuo Kobori, every room on its own courtyard

Osawayama Onsen, Minamiuonuma

Ryokan

里山十帖

MICHELIN Key

Snow-country preserved foods in a 150-year-old farmhouse

Takaokamachi, Kanazawa

Ryokan

つる幸

MICHELIN Key

Four suites in a Kanazawa ryotei of 1965, with its kappo

Shimojohoji, Eiheiji

Auberge

歓宿縁 ESHIKOTO

Black villas on the Kuzuryu, by the Kokuryu sake complex

Yamanaka Onsen, Kaga

Ryokan

かよう亭

Ten tea-pavilion rooms in its own forest above a gorge

Sample trips through Hokuriku

Routes we have drawn up that stay in Hokuriku: starting points for a trip we build around your dates and pace.

The Tokyo Station Hotel, Marunouchi, Tokyo
GranClass, Tokyo to Shin-Hakodate-Hokuto
The Kayotei, Yamanaka Onsen, Kaga

6 nights · Any season

A short first trip: Tokyo, a night in a Kaga ryokan, and Kyoto

Six nights for a first visit: Tokyo, then the Hokuriku Shinkansen to a ryokan in the hills of Kaga for one night of baths and kaiseki, and on to Kyoto.

The Capitol Hotel Tokyu, Nagatacho, Tokyo
GranClass, Tokyo to Shin-Hakodate-Hokuto
Tsuruko, Takaokamachi, Kanazawa

13 nights · Any season

A first two weeks: Tokyo, Kanazawa, Kyoto, Nara and a ryokan in Hakone

Thirteen nights for a first visit, with six of them in ryokans: Tokyo, then GranClass on the Hokuriku Shinkansen to a four-suite inn in Kanazawa, four nights in Gion, two in Nara Park and two at the end in a ryokan in the Hakone hills, a car ride from the airports.

Sanyo-so, Izu-Nagaoka Onsen, Izunokuni
Ochiairo, Amagi Yugashima Onsen, Izu
Kanshukuen Eshikoto, Shimojohoji, Eiheiji

13 nights · Any season

Two weeks of ryokans: the hot springs of Izu, then Fukui and Kaga

For a client who has seen Tokyo and Kyoto: five inns in two regions and no city at all.

Fujiya Inn, Ginzan Onsen, Obanazawa
Satoyama Jujo, Osawayama Onsen, Minamiuonuma
Bettei Senjuan, Tanigawa Onsen, Minakami

6 nights · Winter

Snow country in winter: Ginzan, Uonuma and Tanigawa

A round trip from Tokyo to three hot-spring ryokan in the snow: Ginzan Onsen in Yamagata, then Osawayama in Niigata's rice country and Tanigawa Onsen below the mountains of Gunma.

Hoshinoya Tokyo, Otemachi, Tokyo
GranClass, Tokyo to Shin-Hakodate-Hokuto
Beniya Mukayu, Yamashiro Onsen, Kaga

9 nights · Any season

Kanazawa and the craft towns: lacquer, gold leaf and Kutani porcelain, then the Hida hills

A trip from Tokyo to the Sea of Japan coast in the first-class car of the Hokuriku Shinkansen, then over the mountains through Shirakawa-go to Takayama and on to Matsumoto.

Beyond the hotel

Private and out-of-hours ways into Hokuriku, arranged by our team in Japan. Ask about any of them with your stay.

A geisha evening at Kaikaro, Higashi Chaya

Geisha evening · Higashi Chaya

A geisha evening at Kaikaro

Dance, taiko and shamisen over dinner, one group a night in the largest teahouse

Ask us to arrange it
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An evening ozashiki party for your group alone at Kaikaro, the largest teahouse in the Higashi Chaya district: geisha perform dance, taiko and shamisen over a dinner of seasonal Kanazawa food served on local craft tableware. The proprietress, Hanako Baba, speaks English; one group is taken per night.

Dinner with geiko inside Kenrokuen, Kenrokuen

Geisha evening · Kenrokuen

Dinner with geiko inside Kenrokuen

Kaiseki after the garden closes, with two geiko and an interpreter

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Kaiseki dinner at Kenrokutei, a teahouse inside Kenrokuen by the garden's old fountain, served after the garden has closed to the public, with two geiko (a dancer and a musician) performing and talking with you through an English interpreter. One group a night, 6 to 8 p.m.

Behind the scenes with two geiko, Nishi Chaya

Geisha evening · Nishi Chaya

Behind the scenes with two geiko

Kimono, dance and old party games in a working teahouse, interpreted

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A daytime hour and a half in one of the five working teahouses of the Nishi Chaya district: two geiko show you round, explain their kimono, hair and customs, dance and play taiko and flute, and play the old party games with you, with an English interpreter.

Tea with an Enshu instructor, Nomachi

Tea ceremony · Nomachi

Tea with an Enshu instructor

Tea in a home of nearly a century and how a gathering is prepared; weekdays

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Tea in the tearoom of the nearly hundred-year-old home of Yuta Takahashi, an associate instructor of the Enshu school, near the Nishi Chaya district, with a look behind the scenes of how a gathering is prepared. Private, for up to six.

A morning of tea, incense and kaiseki, Higashi Chaya

Tea ceremony · Higashi Chaya

A morning of tea, incense and kaiseki

A guided walk, then chakaiseki breakfast and tea hosted by Mr Suzuoki

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A private morning in the Higashi Chaya district: a walk with an English-speaking guide, then a chakaiseki breakfast, a monko incense ceremony and tea, all hosted by Mr Suzuoki, chef, tea master and second-generation owner of the restaurant Suzuoki.

A walk through the geiko districts, Higashi Chaya

Guide · Higashi Chaya

A walk through the geiko districts

Two hours by the Asano river with a local guide, for your party alone

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Two hours on foot through the Higashi Chaya and Kazuemachi teahouse districts along the Asano river with a local guide who knows them, for your party alone.

Gold leaf at a Kutani kiln, Komatsu

Craft · Komatsu

Gold leaf at a Kutani kiln

Work with the Yoshida family's artisans; for Beniya Mukayu guests, two nights+

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A visit to Kinzangama, the Kutani overglaze kiln the Yoshida family has run since 1906, to meet its artists and artisans and apply gold leaf to a coloured Kutani piece with their professional tools. For guests of Beniya Mukayu, which we book, staying two nights or more.

Lacquer with Tomizo Saratani, Yamashiro Onsen

Craft · Yamashiro Onsen

Lacquer with Tomizo Saratani

Decorate your own maki-e piece; for Beniya Mukayu guests, two nights or more

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Two hours in the studio of Tomizo Saratani, a lacquer artist who has restored lacquerware for museums and auction houses since the late 1970s, learning how urushi works and decorating your own piece in maki-e with lacquer powder, shell or gold. For guests of Beniya Mukayu, which we book, staying two nights or more.

Woodturning with Terai Laku, Yamanaka Onsen

Craft · Yamanaka Onsen

Woodturning with Terai Laku

Turn a piece he lacquers and sends on; for Beniya Mukayu guests, two nights+

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Two hours at the mountain studio near Yamanaka of the woodturner Terai Laku, a graduate of Yamanaka's four-year woodturning school: you sketch a piece and turn it from a single block, and he lacquers it and sends it to you about three months later. For guests of Beniya Mukayu, which we book, staying two nights or more.

Tea with Beniya Mukayu's owners, Yamashiro Onsen

Tea ceremony · Yamashiro Onsen

Tea with Beniya Mukayu's owners

A bowl and conversation with the Nakamichis; for guests staying two nights+

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A bowl of tea made by Mr and Mrs Nakamichi, the owners of the Relais & Châteaux ryokan Beniya Mukayu, and twenty minutes of conversation with them. For guests of Beniya Mukayu, which we book, staying two nights or more.

Tables worth the effort

The places we have been first, then the counters worth the effort. Many book only by telephone, by introduction or on set dates; we book them for you.

Kataori, Higashiyama

Kaiseki · Higashiyama

Kataori

Ishikawa's highest-rated restaurant on Tabelog, eight seats, no children

Tabelog Gold 2026; Tabelog 100 Japanese Cuisine WEST 2025Hard to book
Tempura Koizumi, Katamachi

Tempura · Katamachi

Tempura Koizumi

Seasonal tempura omakase at nine seats; no children under school age

Tabelog Bronze 2026; Tabelog 100 Tempura 2025Hard to book
Kyomi Kai, Higashiyama

Kaiseki · Higashiyama

Kyomi Kai

Eight seats of Japanese cooking with soba, all seated at once

Tabelog 100 Japanese Cuisine WEST 2025
Zeniya, Katamachi

Kaiseki · Katamachi

Zeniya

Kaiseki since 1970, at a seven-seat counter or in five private rooms

Tsubajin, Teramachi

Kaiseki · Teramachi

Tsubajin

Kanazawa's oldest ryotei, since 1752, Kaga kaiseki in private rooms

Collections for Hokuriku

A hot spring in every room49Dinner in your room15Where the food is the reason22Hot springs where tattoos are no trouble54Ryokans that welcome children38Ryokans with a private onsen in the Japanese Alps and Hokuriku7Ryokans that welcome children in the Japanese Alps and Hokuriku4Tattoo-friendly onsen in the Japanese Alps and Hokuriku8

Elsewhere in Japan

Q&A

Beniya Mukayu has an open-air cypress spring bath in every room, Kofuyuden Beniya a part-open-air one, and Tsuruko an open-air one in every suite. At Araya Totoan 11 of the 17 rooms have their own spring bath.

Stay in Kanazawa for the gardens, the markets and the craft streets: Tsuruko is between the station and Kenrokuen. For a ryokan with its own spring, Yamashiro Onsen, Yamanaka Onsen and Awara are each about an hour away, at Araya Totoan, Beniya Mukayu, The Kayotei and Kofuyuden Beniya.

Araya Totoan, Kofuyuden Beniya and Kanshukuen Eshikoto welcome children, and at Tsuruko young children stay in the Chihaku annex. Beniya Mukayu takes no children under 7, and Hitotsu Notojima guests 13 and over only.

At Araya Totoan tattooed guests may use the shared baths. Kofuyuden Beniya does not allow them in its large baths, but every room has its own spring bath.