Which to choose
Beniya Mukayu or Araya Totoan?
Both are in Yamashiro Onsen in Kaga, and both serve dinner away from the room. Beniya Mukayu is a quiet inn on Yakushiyama hill, its rooms facing a forest garden; Araya Totoan has been kept by one family for eighteen generations over the town's original spring, and its three shared baths are the draw.
Where
Yamashiro Onsen, Kaga
Yunogawa, Kaga
Kind
Ryokan
Ryokan
Rooms
16
17
In the room
Every room has an open-air cypress spring bath
11 of 17 rooms have their own spring-water bath
Shared baths
Two single-sex baths, indoor and open-air
Three baths of the inn's own free-flowing spring
Dinner and breakfast
Kaiseki dinner and breakfast in Kaiseki Horin
Kaiseki dinner in a private dining room, included
Children
No children under 7
Children are welcome
Tattoos
—
Tattoos are fine in the shared baths
MICHELIN Keys
1
1
Booking from abroad
Straightforward
Straightforward
Choose
Beniya Mukayu- Sixteen rooms on a temple hill, facing a forest garden
- Kaiseki in Kaiseki Horin, a dining room of 25 pillars looking onto the garden
- Each of its two communal baths has an indoor bath, an open-air bath and a sauna
Choose
Araya Totoan- Its own source, the largest flow in Yamashiro, free-flowing in every bath
- Three shared baths that change sides, one of them a dark, misty meditation bath
- Vegetarian, vegan and gluten-free meals on request
The two
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Q&A
Yes: both are in Yamashiro Onsen, reached from Kaga Onsen station on the Hokuriku Shinkansen. Araya Totoan is a minute's walk from the town's restored Meiji bathhouse; Beniya Mukayu stands on Yakushiyama hill above it.
At Beniya Mukayu only the four Japanese Premier rooms have futons; the others have beds that can be pushed together. Araya Totoan has low beds on tatami rather than futons.